Charleston: Most polite place - for a pittance

Date: 08-07-2009

In Colonial times, Charleston, S.C., was America's wealthiest city. Three centuries later, it still has an upscale cachet with houses on its historic Battery fetching eight figures, and shopping and restaurants rivaling much larger cities.

But you don't need deep pockets to enjoy this town of pastel buildings, narrow alleys and quaint, secluded gardens. Indeed, you can experience much of Charleston, which has a reputation for being the nation's most polite city, for a pittance.



Where to start

It's hard to see Charleston from your car because you'll likely get confused in a tangle of one-way streets.

Most folks arrive by car, and your first stop should be the Visitor Center on Meeting Street, which is built in an old railroad warehouse and open daily (charlestoncity.info).

You have two options for getting around. You can drive and find a parking garage farther down the peninsula. Or, park by the Visitor Center and board a green DASH trolley bus there. There are four routes through the peninsula, and you can change buses, making it easy to get to most places of interest ($5 day pass, ridecarta.com).



Touring the town

The best way to get to know, and love, Charleston, is walking. Spend time wandering historic streets and alleys. Be sure to wander through the oak-shrouded campus of the College of Charleston, and stroll the antiques district on lower King Street to do some window shopping. At the end of the peninsula is White Point Garden, also known as The Battery, with its mossy oaks, monuments and cannon. It's one of the best places to catch the sea breeze on sultry days.



Free faves

Waterfront Park

After visiting The Battery, wander back up East Bay Street to the city's picturesque park on the Cooper River. There is a pier where you can pass some time swinging in porch swings. The park has grassy areas for picnics, shaded nooks for reading and a large fountain where youngsters can cool off on hot days. Pack bathing suits for the kids. The park is especially lovely in the evening, with the moon rising over the river and harbor beyond.



City Market

This popular open-air market is where you can see and buy everything from Charleston refrigerator magnets to paintings by local artists and jewelry. (Former President Bill Clinton was seen buying turquoise jewelry from a stand after a campaign stop two Christmases ago.) Artisans weave sweetgrass baskets, the same baskets their ancestors crafted for centuries on South Carolina's sea island ($20-$30 for smaller baskets).



Ravenel Bridge

For a magnificent view, one of the city's newest attractions is the $632-million bridge linking Charleston with Mount Pleasant. Most days, from sunrise to after dark, dozens of people can be seen walking the cable-stayed bridge, which has a 2.7-mile pedestrian lane. At the top, there is a gorgeous view of the harbor, looking out to Fort Sumter, the Sullivan's Island Lighthouse and the Atlantic beyond (cooperriverbridge.org).



The Citadel

During the school year, the Friday afternoon dress parade at South Carolina's military college is free. While on the picturesque campus, stop by the Citadel Museum which explores the history of the college (citadel.edu /museum).



Eating

There are about 275 restaurants on the Charleston peninsula. For those on a budget, there are also street vendors who will sell you a chili dog and a Coke for $5.

If you are wandering through the Market during the morning, $7.50 at the Market Street Bakery & Cafe will get you an iced latte and one of their trademark chocolate eclairs. A few blocks away on King Street, you can get a melt-in-your- mouth Reuben and large iced tea at Ye Old Fashioned Ice Cream & Sandwich Cafe for $8 (yeolefashioned.com).

You can also cool off inside a few doors down at Kaminsky's Most Excellent Cafe where the smooth milkshakes are $3.95 and cheesecakes, desserts and other confections are offered, too (kaminskys.com).

Getting there

BY AIR

Delta Air Lines and US Airways fly nonstop from LaGuardia to Charleston. Travelers can often save by flying to Myrtle Beach from New York-area airports, including Long Island MacArthur.

WHEN TO GO

The best, and most popular, times to visit Charleston are in the spring and the fall. The hottest month is July, when temperatures average 82 degrees and with the seaside humidity, can make it feel much hotter. Dress for warm weather in summer, and pack a poncho. Even when the day starts clear, thundershowers tend to roll in many afternoons.

STAYING

Lodging is more expensive on the Charleston peninsula, so those on a budget will want to check North Charleston, Mount Pleasant and the surrounding areas served by a number of national motel chains.